Advance Auto Parts has 8-Ounce Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant on sale for $6.74 when you apply promo code OFFERS25 in your cart. Select free store pickup where available otherwise shipping is free on $35+ orders.
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Your total will be $8.99 - $2.74 promo code = $6.74 with free store pickup
Features:
Highly refined blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite lubricants
Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant
Prevents galling, corrosion and seizing to assure easier disassembly
Temperature Range: -60 Deg. F to 1600 Deg. F (-51 Deg. C to 871 Deg. C)
Ideal for marine use
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About this Deal:
At the time of this posting, Our research indicates that this is $1.85 lower (21.5% savings) than the next best available prices for similar products with prices starting from $8.59. -SaltyOne
PRODUCT DETAILS
Part No. 80078
Warranty Details (30 DAY REPLACEMENT IF DEFECTIVE)
A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60 Deg. F to 1600 Deg. F (-51 Deg. C to 871 Deg. C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant - ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*
Product Features:
Highly refined blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite lubricants
Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant
Prevents galling, corrosion and seizing to assure easier disassembly
Temperature Range: -60 Deg. F to 1600 Deg. F (-51 Deg. C to 871 Deg. C)
Tldr; Do NOT use this on water heater anodes.
1. It product is VERY toxic when ingested, take no chances.
2. It is not a protective dielectric grease or designed to be used as a safe conductive grease;the metals in the grease itself can react with the anode/tank and actually cause corrosion problems. Which in turn will act as a barrier to the electron exchange between the anode and the steel of the heater tank. This means that it would limit or prevent the anode from doing it's job. (Unfortunately most conductive grease is also very toxic)
You'll find your anode is in great condition after you have to replace your rusted out water heater. The anode MUST have a good electrical contact to the steel tank to work, and serve it's purpose as a sacrificial anode. 👍
I would also advise against heavily wrapping the anode threads with Teflon tape for the exact same reason. If you only do about two layers you might be okay, because while screwing the anode into the tank fitting the abrasion of the thread should cut the Teflon enough to allow the edges of the thread to come in contact with a threads of the tank fitting. The surfaces of the threads that contact between the anode and tank will still corrode and bind together, but it will be a much smaller surface area. I don't know how much the reduced contact surface would affect the function of the anode, so it's up to you if you want to take that chance or not.
My advice to you is to do one of two things; number one would be to give the anode a quarter turn every 6 months and then turn it back to break loose any fused surfaces.
Number two would be to look for an anode that has a brass threading or brass plating over the threads. This will dramatically reduce the amount of galvanic corrosion that will occur between the threads of the anode and the steel tank. You should be able to find that feature in any high-end anode, but for a $ price. If you really wanted to, before installation, you could easily heat up the threading of the anode with a torch and then rub a brass wire brush over the surface to give it a light coating a brass over the surface of the threads, basically a do-it-yourself plating for the anode.
I would generally recommend the 6 month turn method, but it just depends on how much you think your time is worth.
ive had mine for more than 10 years, its still didnt dry up. I dont use a whole ton of it when working on cars tho. Usually on rotors on wheels and some bolts so they dont seize up.
Nope as long as its sealed. I have a can that must be over 30yrs old from when my folks moved. Last yr I was working on something and realized I was out so I popped open the can and guess what? Half used and still fine.
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1. It product is VERY toxic when ingested, take no chances.
2. It is not a protective dielectric grease or designed to be used as a safe conductive grease;the metals in the grease itself can react with the anode/tank and actually cause corrosion problems. Which in turn will act as a barrier to the electron exchange between the anode and the steel of the heater tank. This means that it would limit or prevent the anode from doing it's job. (Unfortunately most conductive grease is also very toxic)
You'll find your anode is in great condition after you have to replace your rusted out water heater. The anode MUST have a good electrical contact to the steel tank to work, and serve it's purpose as a sacrificial anode. 👍
If you want to know more, here is a decent wikipedia on the subject.
https://en.m.wikipedia.
I would also advise against heavily wrapping the anode threads with Teflon tape for the exact same reason. If you only do about two layers you might be okay, because while screwing the anode into the tank fitting the abrasion of the thread should cut the Teflon enough to allow the edges of the thread to come in contact with a threads of the tank fitting. The surfaces of the threads that contact between the anode and tank will still corrode and bind together, but it will be a much smaller surface area. I don't know how much the reduced contact surface would affect the function of the anode, so it's up to you if you want to take that chance or not.
My advice to you is to do one of two things; number one would be to give the anode a quarter turn every 6 months and then turn it back to break loose any fused surfaces.
Number two would be to look for an anode that has a brass threading or brass plating over the threads. This will dramatically reduce the amount of galvanic corrosion that will occur between the threads of the anode and the steel tank. You should be able to find that feature in any high-end anode, but for a $ price. If you really wanted to, before installation, you could easily heat up the threading of the anode with a torch and then rub a brass wire brush over the surface to give it a light coating a brass over the surface of the threads, basically a do-it-yourself plating for the anode.
I would generally recommend the 6 month turn method, but it just depends on how much you think your time is worth.
https://www.menards.com/main/tool...207395.h
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A little goes a long way.
As long as the lid is closed it should not. I have a bottle that is over 10years old and still works.
If it ever gets dry just add a cap of motor oil to it.
This isn't the lube you're looking for, you can go about your business