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But, if you are by a Menards, their Tool Shop 4-1/2" Turbo Rim Diamond Blade [menards.com] that stays cooler with dry cuts is $3.99 and $3.55 after rebate.
If you want other than made in China, you will pay more.
Glass is easy enough to cut, but finishing the edges might be your real issue. You could use a belt sander upside down with silica carbide belts, but running dry, you have to be careful with the heat. Start out with a 120, then 220 and then 400. They do make a cork belt for final finish, but a little stick wax on the 400 grit will do well.
Our old glass cutting machine that came from PPG has a brass blade that runs in water that I don't think can be bought today.... but basically a predecessor to the wet tile saw. Our old beveling machine is a heavy steel wheel that turns flat and with water, uses carborundum in different grits. It is quite the art that my Grandfather was good at... a necklace deal with notches that determined the angle of bevel. Our glass grinder is an older Sommer & Maca with a 106" wet belt. Sommer & Maca was bought out by C.R. Lawrence, their long time competitor, that sells most anything you would need.
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But, if you are by a Menards, their Tool Shop 4-1/2" Turbo Rim Diamond Blade [menards.com] that stays cooler with dry cuts is $3.99 and $3.55 after rebate.
If you want other than made in China, you will pay more.
What else would you use it in..? There's literally a picture of an angle grinder on the disc...
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You need to find a good glass tile blade more than a saw. Glass generally responds better to slower RPMS and doesn't need as much power to cut through (vs hard porcelain) but the speed of the cut is slow as well since glass blade will have very fine grit so it doesn't chip glass but cuts it instead. It also depends on the thickness of the glass tile since thinner pieces tend to chip and crack easier vs thick ones.