I got the 120V version, 12K btu last deal in August. Happy with it, did a very detailed DIY install video on it. https://youtu.be/Hmn0fzvMgos
I insulalted my west facing garage door here in SoCal and it made a HUGE difference. Rather than the garage kit, I used 2 layers of foil covered styrofoam insulation making it easy to bend, I faced the foil towards the door on the first layer to reflect heat back outside and the foil towards the garage on the second layer to get a reflective layer to hold in the heat in the winter. I put some construction glue between them.
FOIL - WHITE - construction adhesive - WHITE - FOIL
It looks nice with the shiny foil inside and works well. The outside of the door gets hotter now since a lot less heat is entering the garage. Only took an afternoon to do.
Southeast. Summers can get into the 100. Double car garage. I think the garage door is insulated.
I wouldn't even bother unless your garage faces north, or you will be fighting the entire power of the southern sun. Also it's typically pretty easy to tell if you have an insulated garage door, most commercial brands will either look like hard foam or bagged insulation.
I wouldn't even bother unless your garage faces north, or you will be fighting the entire power of the southern sun. Also it's typically pretty easy to tell if you have an insulated garage door, most commercial brands will either look like hard foam or bagged insulation.
Southeast here too - about 400 st ft - 0 insulation
I wouldn't even bother unless your garage faces north, or you will be fighting the entire power of the southern sun. Also it's typically pretty easy to tell if you have an insulated garage door, most commercial brands will either look like hard foam or bagged insulation.
While you do have somewhat of a point an AC will always help. My garage faces East so it gets hit hard as well. Anything that moves air helps. I installed an attic/roof fan and that was a huge help which I recommend people do. My roof is now insulated and drywalled so it won't be as hot although my shingles will not last as long due to trapped heat. Anyhow, I have been considering AC as well for my garage but my garage is very sealed up so it will be more efficient in my case.
I can't believe how reasonable these units are.
Make sure you have room in the panel for a 2-pole breaker and enough amps to supply it.
Research the electrical before you jump. If you are handy it isn't too tough to do yourself.
Also make sure you have a way to drain the condensate from indoor unit.
Cost me about $400 to have a tech come in to finalize the hose connections, evacuate the lines, release the refrigerant and make sure all was working.
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FOIL - WHITE - construction adhesive - WHITE - FOIL
It looks nice with the shiny foil inside and works well. The outside of the door gets hotter now since a lot less heat is entering the garage. Only took an afternoon to do.
https://www.homedepot.c
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Cooling capacity: 12,000 BTU/hour with 19.0 SEER efficiency
Heating capacity: 12,500 BTU/H with 9.5 HSPF efficiency
Low ambient system can heat down to -13°F ambient outdoor temperatures
Voltage: 208-Volt - 230-Volt, 60Hz, 1Ph
https://www.homedepot.c
What part of the country are you in and how big is your garage?
Southeast. Summers can get into the 100. Double car garage. I think the garage door is insulated.
Southeast here too - about 400 st ft - 0 insulation
worth it?
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While you do have somewhat of a point an AC will always help. My garage faces East so it gets hit hard as well. Anything that moves air helps. I installed an attic/roof fan and that was a huge help which I recommend people do. My roof is now insulated and drywalled so it won't be as hot although my shingles will not last as long due to trapped heat. Anyhow, I have been considering AC as well for my garage but my garage is very sealed up so it will be more efficient in my case.
These are awesome!! We've installed in two different garages
worth it?
https://www.calculator.
I can't believe how reasonable these units are.
Make sure you have room in the panel for a 2-pole breaker and enough amps to supply it.
Research the electrical before you jump. If you are handy it isn't too tough to do yourself.
Also make sure you have a way to drain the condensate from indoor unit.
Cost me about $400 to have a tech come in to finalize the hose connections, evacuate the lines, release the refrigerant and make sure all was working.
worth it?