Ryobi ONE+ 18V Cordless 1/2" Hammer Drill/Driver (Tool Only) Expired

Shows 39.97 but says regular price is 49.00 not 79.00

Well you could always unscrew the handle and that way it wouldn't take up too much extra space in the bag. I've always found the side handle just gives me a little more stability, esp when starting the drill hole.

Jesus, the actual answer is they are 2 completely different tools. The impact driver uses a 1/4" hex quick connect chuck which can only accept 1/4" hex bits. It also typically spins near double (Usually over 3000rpm while drills spin less than 2000, although some of the newer brushless drills spin over 2k) the speed as a normal drill/hammer drill. An impact driver will never hurt your wrist and can drill/drive MOST things the same or better than a drill. The hammer drill is just a regular drill with a three finger closeable (Jacobs style) chuck, this one being a 1/2" metal chuck which is a huge upgrade over a plastic chuck, and the drill has a forward hammering function. You can apply a more even torque with a drill since it has a direct drive function (the drill selection picture on the chuck). You can also set the breakaway torque for the adjustable clutch so you don't drive the screws into oblivion because the newer drills do have quite a bit of torque. The hammer function is just a small add on to the drill/driver that basically sends a fast hammering function forward through the bit and is used for masonry drilling. It is a night and day difference if you ever drill into/through masonry for you to have a hammer drill. I have used my impact driver plenty of times to drill into masonry, and it works, but nowhere near like a hammer drill. If you use a hammer drill for masonry, your bits will last at least twice as long, usually 5x or more, and the operation is way faster. If you are just driving screws or drilling through wood, use the impact. If you ever drill through concrete, you will 100% benefit from the hammer drill.