DieHard Gold AGM Power Sport 12V Battery: 200 CCA $91.69, 180 CCA or 120 CCA $77 + free shipping
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Advance Auto Parts[advanceautoparts.com] has select DieHard Gold AGM Power Sport Batteries 30% off in cart. Shipping & Same Day Delivery are free or Free Store pickup at select Advance Auto Parts stores.
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06-28-2022 at 06:58 PM.
Quote
from JL5
:
With so little COLD Cranking Amps…I wonder if it will start a vehicle in Florida on a cold morning! 🤔🤣😂
Up north, a min of 600+ CCA is required for those colder mornings
These are powersports batteries, not automotive batteries.... which means they are used for things like motorcycles, ATV's, and lawn tractors. Those types of vehicles typically have batteries with 100-240 CCA.
These are powersports batteries, not automotive batteries.... which means they are used for things like motorcycles, ATV's, and lawn tractors. Those types of vehicles typically have batteries with 100-240 CCA.
Thanks for the update...Had me a bit worried there.
Initially, based on the pics, I thought they were car batteries and I (for a second) thought, Wow, that's a decent price. Now that you've educated me about their real use...I'm even more ticked at how expensive lead batteries have gotten over the years.
When I was a kid - a quality Die Hard car battery was $25-35 w/$5-10 core charge. Now you can't seem to get a quality branded car battery for under $125-150. And to think, probably north of 85% of most batteries are recycled and the lead made into new batteries - I'm sure the recycling percentage for lead batteries is probably higher than it is for paper, plastics, or aluminum.
BTW, just my own personal experience - but I've been able to purchase my last few batteries (they don't seem to last as long anymore either) for a significant savings at Costco. I know not everyone has a Costco card (I don't) but if you have friend who does, take a look at Costco's pricing the next time you're in need. Coscto carries the Interstate Brand for my vehicle @ around $70 after trade-in.
Generally speaking it's a bad idea - the instructable mentions the possibility of fire with an underrated battery, but overlooks the obvious - that the inverter circuitry in your off the shelf, home/small office UPSs is built to run for a limited amount of time for a graceful shutdown, not intended to be a longer term source of power.
The one thing about inverter circuits - they get *hot*. AGM batteries are used in industrial UPS - but those are intended as short term power sources, not just to give you a few minutes to shut everything down. As such, they have built in monitoring for heating and have cooling systems (typically redundant) to make sure they never reach dangerous temps.
If you are looking at longer periods of downtime, don't stretch a UPS system, consider a temporary power source or inverter generator.
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Certainly not a pro, as in an electrical engineer (structural, yes), but you will probably need to upgrade the transformer to handle the extra wattage in both charging and discharging and perhaps the controller. And you might consider a deep cycle battery; one that is designed to be continuously charged and discharged... like one used for a trolling motor. The lead plates are further apart and better insulated for long term cycling (charge and discharge) usage with deeper discharges.
Regular vehicle batteries are built with plates close together for more plates for maximum amperage discharge over short periods. You only drain those dead a couple times and they are basically junk. Those come in two types... the flooded, or an AGM like the OP. The difference is that you can drain a flooded battery to about 80% and not hurt it, but an AGM is about 50% before you shorten the lifespan. As well, you can overcharge a flooded, which many are, but be careful with an AGM.
You can do a lot of things with a UPC that has a bad battery, but when you replace with a larger battery that the circuitry was not designed for, you are probably overloading the original transformer for the longer recharge time frame. As well, any additional batteries connected in parallel for same voltage to original sized battery as a back up should be charged separately to not overload the original UPC transformer.
Basically, I would start from scratch like you would with perhaps a small solar system and maybe add panels later. You might decide that lithium is the way to go.
Even cheaper at rockauto (counting shipping in most cases) but core charge becomes tricky with shipped orders (of you can find the appropriate battery - they don't have power sport, but they're considerably cheapest for my vehicle batteries).
actually they have them for the same price give or take a few dollars no discount needed and under $100, did you actually check?
I bought 1 Ytx14bs equivalent and was charged $110+ after the core fee and taxes. I ended up returning it when I found a Yusasa (albeit no longer made in the USA) for $80 on eBay w/o a core fee.
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Up north, a min of 600+ CCA is required for those colder mornings
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank partyman66
Up north, a min of 600+ CCA is required for those colder mornings
Initially, based on the pics, I thought they were car batteries and I (for a second) thought, Wow, that's a decent price. Now that you've educated me about their real use...I'm even more ticked at how expensive lead batteries have gotten over the years.
When I was a kid - a quality Die Hard car battery was $25-35 w/$5-10 core charge. Now you can't seem to get a quality branded car battery for under $125-150. And to think, probably north of 85% of most batteries are recycled and the lead made into new batteries - I'm sure the recycling percentage for lead batteries is probably higher than it is for paper, plastics, or aluminum.
BTW, just my own personal experience - but I've been able to purchase my last few batteries (they don't seem to last as long anymore either) for a significant savings at Costco. I know not everyone has a Costco card (I don't) but if you have friend who does, take a look at Costco's pricing the next time you're in need. Coscto carries the Interstate Brand for my vehicle @ around $70 after trade-in.
https://www.costco.com/automotive-batteries.html
Sorry OP, didn't mean to steal your thunder/highjack your thread....just airing thoughts.
Like this https://www.instructabl
Like this https://www.instructables.com/Mak...tead-of-m/ [instructables.com]
The one thing about inverter circuits - they get *hot*. AGM batteries are used in industrial UPS - but those are intended as short term power sources, not just to give you a few minutes to shut everything down. As such, they have built in monitoring for heating and have cooling systems (typically redundant) to make sure they never reach dangerous temps.
If you are looking at longer periods of downtime, don't stretch a UPS system, consider a temporary power source or inverter generator.
Like this https://www.instructables.com/Mak...tead-of-m/ [instructables.com]
Certainly not a pro, as in an electrical engineer (structural, yes), but you will probably need to upgrade the transformer to handle the extra wattage in both charging and discharging and perhaps the controller. And you might consider a deep cycle battery; one that is designed to be continuously charged and discharged... like one used for a trolling motor. The lead plates are further apart and better insulated for long term cycling (charge and discharge) usage with deeper discharges.
Regular vehicle batteries are built with plates close together for more plates for maximum amperage discharge over short periods. You only drain those dead a couple times and they are basically junk. Those come in two types... the flooded, or an AGM like the OP. The difference is that you can drain a flooded battery to about 80% and not hurt it, but an AGM is about 50% before you shorten the lifespan. As well, you can overcharge a flooded, which many are, but be careful with an AGM.
You can do a lot of things with a UPC that has a bad battery, but when you replace with a larger battery that the circuitry was not designed for, you are probably overloading the original transformer for the longer recharge time frame. As well, any additional batteries connected in parallel for same voltage to original sized battery as a back up should be charged separately to not overload the original UPC transformer.
Basically, I would start from scratch like you would with perhaps a small solar system and maybe add panels later. You might decide that lithium is the way to go.
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https://www.menards.com/main/sear...ts+batte
Even cheaper at rockauto (counting shipping in most cases) but core charge becomes tricky with shipped orders (of you can find the appropriate battery - they don't have power sport, but they're considerably cheapest for my vehicle batteries).